josutherstphotography

Mar 10, 20182 min

Final Major Project: Considering Others – Gareth Pugh

“The look is (painfully) gorgeous. She looks like a mannequin or a forties model in a Pond’s Cold Cream ad.”

– Garland (Thompson 2016)

In 2016, Gareth Pugh’s AW16 show at London Fashion Week presented models with extreme contouring. Their hyper plumped up cheekbones created quite a sensation in the fashion world. MAC make-up artist Val Garland

Pugh’s make-up artist Val Garland created the look using elastic placed under the models’ cheekbones and fastened behind the ears to create razor-sharp definition in the face. This also pulled up the top lip and created the illusion of a fuller lip. The cheeks and lips look as though they have been pumped full of filler in a cosmetic surgery procedure. This macabre illusion shocked observers suggesting self-mutilation and extreme surgery.

This simple but effective method of extreme contouring is one that I will be experimenting with (even though I am allergic to elastic).

Figure 1: Yuo Mok/PA Wire. (Thompson 2016)

Figure 2: Yuo Mok/PA Wire. (Thompson 2016)

Figure 3: Yuo Mok/PA Wire. (Thompson 2016)

Figure 4: (Backstage At Gareth Pugh; Brace Yourself 2016)

Figure 5: (Sian Ranscombe 2016)

Figure 6: (Marian Newman on Instagram: “@garethpughstudio Divine show! @thevalgarland @1malcolmedwards @maccosmetics #garethpughfrench” 2016)

Video 1: (Gareth Pugh London Show Is “Painfully Gorgeous” 2016)

Video 2: (London Fashion Week Fall 2016 | Gareth Pugh 2016)

REFERENCES

SIAN RANSCOMBE. 2016. “Gareth Pugh injects ‘pillow face’ into London Fashion Week – using tights”. The Telegraph [online]. Available at: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/beauty/make-up/gareth-pugh-beauty-aw16/ [accessed 10 March 2018].

THOMPSON, RACHEL. 2016. “Designer creates extreme cheekbone contouring using stretched elastic”. Mashable [online]. Available at: https://mashable.com/2016/02/21/horror-show-contouring/#XqL4tC_OBuqT [accessed 10 March 2018].

IMAGE SOURCES

Figures 1-3: THOMPSON, RACHEL. 2016. “Designer creates extreme cheekbone contouring using stretched elastic”. Mashable [online]. Available at: https://mashable.com/2016/02/21/horror-show-contouring/#XqL4tC_OBuqT [accessed 10 March 2018].

Figure 4: Backstage At Gareth Pugh; Brace Yourself. 2016. Marie Claire [online]. Available at: http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/news/beauty-news/backstage-at-gareth-pugh-brace-yourself-17406 [accessed 10 March 2018].

Figure 5: SIAN RANSCOMBE. 2016. “Gareth Pugh injects ‘pillow face’ into London Fashion Week – using tights”. The Telegraph [online]. Available at: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/beauty/make-up/gareth-pugh-beauty-aw16/ [accessed 10 March 2018].

Figure 6: Marian Newman on Instagram: “@garethpughstudio Divine show! @thevalgarland @1malcolmedwards @maccosmetics #garethpughfrench”. 2016. Instagram [online]. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BCBnVvZxnWh/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=embed_profile_upsell_test [accessed 10 March 2018].

VIDEO SOURCES

Video 1: Gareth Pugh London Show Is “Painfully Gorgeous”. 2016. YouTube [online]. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJRe1n_oPQo [accessed 10 March 2018].

Video 2: London Fashion Week Fall 2016 | Gareth Pugh. 2016. YouTube [online]. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abvPxkv-T1Y [accessed 10 March 2018].

#FracturedIdentities #March2018

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